This trip is another two part-er… we flew in and out of Paris but that will be another story, since I have so much to say about Italy! From Paris, we flew into Naples and waited for our driver to take us to our bed and breakfast in Positano. A small man in pink trousers was waiting with our name on a sheet of paper. Without saying anything, he took my roller luggage and motioned us to follow him to the parked car. My boyfriend, Nick, was thrilled to see Vesuvius looming over the horizon. As we approached the cliff side, the roads became very narrow and we marveled at our drivers ability to navigate through two way traffic!
When we neared Positano, I was floored by how gorgeous the view was. Yes, everyone sees the giant mound of colorful houses on Instagram, but when you’re there you can see just how huge the cliff is! And the two way roads got even narrower! Cars had their mirrors tucked in and were still just barely grazing by each other. Our driver dropped us off at the Hotel Florida. It was a lovely room with Italian decor, a gorgeous tiled shower and a large shared balcony with a tiled table and lemon trees! We changed into swimsuits and headed to the beach!
The walk down was gorgeous with colorful shops selling hand painted tiles, handmade leather sandals and sunhats! There were bright purple wisterias and pink flowers all over! AND SO MANY STAIRS!
The beach was packed. There were Italian boys playing with a soccer ball behind us, people swimming, people lounging. The beach was so alive and exciting! But walking on the volcanic sand kind of hurt and there were a few ladies going completely topless! It was a new experience.
On our way back, Nick wanted to stop at the hotel Le Sirenuse, a Michelin Star Restaurant. As non-guests, we couldn’t use the pool but they let us get drinks beside it. The view was absolutely gorgeous and along with our drinks, we got a plate of olives and a small chocolate for free. We didn’t realize most places give you free snacks so we were really blown away.
The next morning, we had to check out of our hotel and since our AirBNB wouldn’t check us in until later, my strong, sweet boyfriend carried my luggage up and down the cliff for me! This time we splurged a little and got lounge chairs at the private beach. For simplicity, we had just rounded to the nearest big city and told everyone we met that we were from New York. Coincidentally, the couple sitting next to us on the lounge chairs were from Philadelphia, just like us! Small world!
We can get pretty serious about our picture taking and Nick forgot his shoes on the beach. When we ran back to get them, some kind stranger had put them on a ledge away from the water. What a hero!
Our AirBNB host, Sal, gave us a call that the room was ready for us and we began the hike up the cliff. It is all stairs and even though I exercise pretty regularly, I was winded by the time we got to the house. I cant imagine how poor Nick felt carrying our luggage that he nicknamed “the anvil”!
But Sal’s lovely house was a dream come true. We were greeted by a bright yellow door and flowers. Our room had a gorgeous view and a huge balcony. Sal had even left us some cherry drinks, champagne and fresh fruit. We took pictures!
We decided to venture out to Sorrento for dinner by bus. Remember how I mentioned the two way roads were scary narrow? Imagine being in a bus now! These Italian drivers are something else!
Positano is all tourists! Sorrento is slightly less touristy so we decided to get some more genuine Italian experiences… and we got it immediately. We were casually walking holding hands until we encountered an old Italian man walking the opposite way. I don’t know what his problem was, but he looked at us with disgust and grunted as he motioned for us to get out of his way! It was so rude but so funny! We immediately moved to the side!
The restaurant we picked, Ristorante Pizzeria Tasso, was really nice! We ordered two pizzas and a clam pasta dish. They gave us free pizza bite appretizers, limonchello and cookies for dessert as well. Much to our surprise, when we finished our pizza, we found a very sexual drawing on our plate! On our way out we noticed the decor included cute ceramic donkeys… in various sex positions! It was all so subtle and we were the only people surprised by it! I guess we were the prudes. Sadly we missed the last bus back to Positano and had to get a cab back… this was pricey!
The next day we took a ferry to Capri. While we waited to board, we enjoyed some Aperol Spritz and some photography!
You get one of the best views of Positano by boat! We didn’t pick the best day to go apparently. The weather was too bad to come back to Positano so we would have to leave Capri for Sorrento and this time catch the bus on time back to Positano. It was worth it though because Capri had gorgeous gardens everywhere, huge white cliffs and a lot of luxury shopping!
The weather was too bad to see the Blue Grotto too. That was one of my main sights for Capri and we couldn’t go. So instead we walked around enjoying the shopping and taking pictures. After a couple hours on the beach, we caught a ferry back to Sorrento and actually caught the bus back. To get from the docks to the main street of Sorrento, you take these stairs!
This would be our last night in Positano before heading to Naples and we were determined to make the most of it. From the Positano bus stop we decided to walk to the Villa Treville for dinner. It was about two hours of walking! We got to see all kinds of views as the sun set… and we kept walking…
It was dark by the time we reached Hotel Villa Treville. We walked into a white, futuristic looking office that looked nothing like a hotel or restaurant. We didn’t have any reservation so thankfully, they let us in after a short wait. While we waited, they offered to let us have a drink at their bar. We took a mirrored elevator from the office down into the hotel and walked through a white cave-like hallway. I honestly don’t know the theme of the hotel, but it was impressive nonetheless!
The hallway opened out into a covered patio with couches and sheer curtains and a view of the cliff side all lit up. When our table was ready, we were treated like royalty! The hostess gave us free glasses of wine. Our meals were amazing! I ordered a steak with mushroom sauce. Our desert was a pistachio crust, apple mouse shaped in a heart covered in white chocolate with gold flakes. It was one of the best restaurants I have ever been to for food, service and atmosphere!
Thankfully, we caught a cab back to our room since I could not do that walk back! The next day we sadly had to pack up and go. We took the bus to Sorrento and a train to Naples. Since it was on the way, we decided to stop at and take a tour of Pompeii. Our tour was really good and I appreciated learning about how people lived. It was daunting to see Mount Vesuvius still looming over the city it wrecked. There were still casts of human remains on display. There were a lot of preserved paintings that let us know what the buildings were used for and that really brought a sense of life back to the ruins.
The stone streets were sort of hard to walk on! To your eye it looked paved but you were sort of jumping on boulders. Also, there were carved penises on the stone to point the way to the ancient brothels!
We got a little lemonade before catching the train back to Naples.
I don’t think I took any pictured in Naples because I was busy trying not to get hit by a car! Naples, at least in the vicinity of the train station, was NOT touristy! Cars drove so recklessly! There were mopeds with families of three balanced on them. People were yelling from their upper story windows to people in the street. These same people would take stuff from the street in little buckets with rope tied to them! Were there even crosswalks? We just ran behind people who looked confident! Naples was chaos and we were not prepared! To make it worse, we had researched the first Neapolitan Pizza Restaurant in Naples that is supposed to be amazing. The line was out the door… and everyone had a ticket! Not knowing how to get a ticket, we decided to wing it and eat somewhere else. Unfortunately, we picked a fried pizza place that must have run out of marinara sauce because our pizza tasted like soggy, cheesy, bread. Defeated, we headed back to the hotel, which fortunately had a nice bar and a balcony view of Vesuvius.
Altogether, Italy was incredible even crazy Napoli! So much so that we are going back Summer 2019. Here are more pictures:
That’s all 🙂